Thai cooking and Traveling to Chiang Khong

Well we started this day off right with a traditional Thai cooking class. I love Thai food and taking this class was fun! We got to go to a local market and see the food we would be using in our recipes. We learned how to buy it in the market, what it looks like, as well as see how its sold. I'm not sure if there are any Thai markets in Chicago, but I'll try to stick to exactly how I was taught. My new favorite food/spices = galangal, lemongrass & Thai chilies...

After the cooking class we packed up into the van and headed from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong which is in north east Thailand and is a very common place to cross into Laos, which is what we did. On our way there we stopped at Wat Rong Khun, or the White Temple. The temple is well known mostly because it is white and very few temples are white, but also because it is a contemporary temple, where it only began construction in 1997.

I got the feeling that there was something very controversial about this temple because neither our tour leader or Thai guide really wanted to talk to much about it, they just wanted us to see it. Thankfully there was a catalog, so I was able to get a lot more information about it.

Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpipat is a visual artist who has decided to build this temple and make the construction of this temple his life's work. In his catalog he explains how he doesn't accept money from the government so he can keep creative control on any decision about the design of the building and the art included in it. Kositpipat is somewhat of an anomaly in Thailand in that when he was a student at Silpakorn University, he was the only student in his program who sought to make contemporary Thai art. Since most students chose to follow the path of making either traditional Thai art or go the European artistic route, Kositpipat is unique in that he is defining Contemporary Thai Art. Kositpipat's decision to make this temple his life's work to showcase Contemporary Thai Art is somewhat controversial and I'm not sure he is really being acclaimed for it yet. The Thai people seem somewhat cautious of what he is doing. He has 60 followers who are artists that have committed to make work for the temple, also claiming to give everything they can to make the temple their life's work. You gotta respect that kind of commitment to a project. I also think this is why it is so controversial, because the imagery showcased at this temple is modeled from historic Buddhist icons, but doesn't follow the exact path every other temple does...change makes people nervous.



What was most striking about the temple (and really what made me want to figure out more about it) was one of the recently finished paintings on the inside of the main structure. We weren't allowed to take photos inside, so this image comes from the catalog. Inside the rather traditional looking spirit mouth are paintings of very contemporary images. These images included the iconic image of the attack of the twin towers on 9/11, superheros like Superman, Spiderman, Neo from the matrix as well as Avatar characters, and then spaceships, aliens, luxury goods, a gas pump and many things "western." There were even details that were more hidden like a ghost images of semi-automatic weapons within the spirit's face and portraits of both Osama Bin Laden and George Bush in the spirit's eyes. Honestly, at this point I was a little nervous...what exactly is this painting trying to get across? Am I in trouble here? Thank goodness for the catalog, apparently these questions have been asked a lot, so the artist addressed them specifically. Kositpipat said of his painting:

"I want everyone to know that our world is being destroyed by those who craved to build weapons that kill, thereby ruining the environment because nothing is ever enough...Peaceful people do not want to see the murder of the Muslims and the collapse of the New York Twin Towers. I wanted to show that eyes, as important organs, should look at each other with kindness and not with hate that can lead to war. I painted, at that time, to caution both George Bush and Bin Laden so that they can look toward a peaceful and happy world. I painted Superman and Ultraman to let people know that there is really no heroes in our world. Actually people need heroes since our mortality declines every day. However, no heroes from the movie screen arrive to help the havoc of the Twin Towers...When people walk out, they will feel that they leave the demon behind that is they have rid themselves from evil spirits and going towards "lokutharadhamma" (the highest level of dhamma, where people will not be reborn)."

As part of his commitment to put everything into his project, he is actually there almost everyday. When we were there he was being filmed (not sure what for, it was all in Thai), so while we were waiting for an incredible rain storm to pass, nerdy me, I went and got his autograph.

That's him. The one in the front.

Asia and its Objects

So... finding a internet connection in small town Asia was hard. Finding an internet connection that was actually strong enough to upload any kind of pictures was close to impossible, so this is why I have been absent for a while but I intend to pick right up where I left off!

Traveling through Asia was such an amazing experience! I experienced culture shock (big time), sat on warm sunny beaches, thought I was going to pass out from heat exhaustion as well as saw some of the most beautiful countrysides I've ever seen. Needless to say, there is much to talk about.

One of my main goals of this trip - aside from the fact that this was my honeymoon - was to encounter each experience as a maker and to see everything as having the possibility of informing my work. There was no shortage! I experienced makers at every turn! I actually felt like I got a lot more out of this trip than some because I understand what it takes to make things, and I can tell when I see something that has been handmade. The main tourist attractions in Asia are temples, museums, markets and communities of local people. Each of these have something in common, OBJECTS! Therefore my favorite experiences involved both the historical and contemporary objects I encountered during my trip.

Another goal for me during this trip was to try to define what "developing" actually means visually. Aside from the smog, lack of recycling programs, unusual restroom practices and incredibly low prices, my favorite discovery in each city was the still very common use of hand techniques, as well as some very interesting modified hand tools. Mechanization hasn't really hit small town Asia as we know it in the US, so I was delighted to encounter hand made objects everywhere, at times I couldn't keep track of all the techniques I recognized. It was exciting! So, starting where I left off, let's head to Wat Pho, one of the biggest temples in Bangkok.

Wat means temple, so everywhere we went in Thailand, we went to some Wats. They all started to look the same from the outside, but the insides all had their own handmade components.

Carving is hand technique I saw everywhere. Whether it was in wood or stone, I saw carving as a method to exaggerate ornamentation (therefore status) on objects and architecture. Most of the carved pieces I saw in Thailand date from long ago, but while I was in Bali I saw men carving wooden doors on the side of the road, so I know it still happens.

















detail of that sweet belt buckle






These are royal stupas, or chedis as they are called in Thailand, which are burial markers that hold the relics. It would have been a great honor to be buried in a temple - to be closer to Buddha - and the right to be buried in this temple was reserved for royalty.

Each one of these stupas is decorated with thousands of tiny mosaic ceramic bits. Some of them are huge and can be seen from across town!








Okay, lets talk Buddhas. They are everywhere! Golden Buddhas can be found at most temples in Thailand, and for the most part they are cast bronze that are then gold leafed. I did encounter a few Buddhas whose leaving was flaking off, probably because of the heat and humidity. I wonder whose job it is to re-gold-leaf? It looks like they have gotten pretty good at it.








This colossal Buddha figure is called the Reclining Buddha and it was gigantic! I couldn't imagine having to gold leaf this bad boy.
































































The feet (as well as the eyes) of the Reclining Buddha are inlaid. The imagery on the feet are inlaid with mother of pearl showing the 108 lakshanas, or marks and signs on the body as well as the gestures of a true Buddha.

























Wat Pho is also the location of the first university in Bangkok and now houses the center for traditional Thai massage. I got the best massage I received in Thailand here. Thai massage is different than a sweedish massage in that they use mostly pressure and you are fully clothed when receiving the massage. I got the one hour with herbs which involved no oils at all, but halfway through my lady started pressing a boiling hot sack of herbs into my skin. It was awesome.




I loved these anatomy charts that I encountered on the way out. Considering this has been a center for understanding the body for a long time, it makes sense they are here. Whatever was written on those markers in different sections of the body has long since disappeared though.

We took this wonderful boat tour down the canal and I loved it mostly because there were 6 and 8 foot water monitors swimming around looking for dead things floating (we saw a few fine examples) but also because it was a nice example of a different way that people live in Asia. One of the ladies on our tour asked about the poor people that live here, to which our guide replied that the people who live here are actually considered very rich because they own these homes and that is considered very well off. Pretty cool way to look at it I think.

Bangkok

(random 4 ft monitor next to the canal!!!)

(Okay, so most Buddhas in Thailand are guilded, but they claim that this Buddha, the golden buddha, is solid gold! That's 12,000 lb of Gold! Although I'm not sure at this point whether I believe it or not...)














Bangkok has been a bit of a roller coaster. Amazing images, incredibly historical, rich culture, and somewhat predatory of tourists. Every thing you could think of to spend your money on offer you amazing deals, almost too good. Then when you decide to transact you have to make sure you get everything that was promised! I spent my first day just expecting that I would get everything I was promised, which did not happen! Being very firm has helped. Aside from getting ripped off a couple of times, I've seen some pretty incredible stuff....

Tuk Tuks, which are the three-wheeled, moped like scooters putting around Bangkok are really cute and they aren't something we see in the U.S., so of course most Westerners want to take them, however they have their own agenda. Fashion houses that custom tailor clothing, jewelry and gem distributors as well as some restaurants give the Tuk Tuk drivers comissions if they bring tourists to their shop, even if we don't buy anything. This means that getting to where YOU actually want to go in a tuk tuk is damn near impossible. Dave and I found this out the hard way on our first day. Even tricker the taxi drivers speak little to no english, while the tuk tuk drivers speak perfect english. ARG! Some have even partnered with very well spoken Thais who claim to all be trusted professionals (we've been offered directions by teachers, lawyers and doctors! Who knew there were so many just floating around Bangkok streets!) Its literally impossible to pull out a map on the street without the tuk-tuk drivers and their accomplises running over and trying to help. And they lie their faces off! No matter where you are, they will point you in the direction of one of these three main places. We literally had someone draw on a map these two places on a map in the direction of a temple we wanted to see, but when we looked on a map afterwards they were nowhere near where they had written it! Solution?...just take taxis..It takes a few tries to find one that knows where you are going with some simple english and map pointing, but eventually you'll find one and they are so incredibly cheap its worth it.

Whew! Okay. well, aside from that I have had a VERY good first few days. Our first excersion day we ended up in the production district, which I think was one of my favorite things I've seen yet. Its near one of the first temples built in the old city of Bangkok, so it makes sense that this is where a lot of production took place. Store after store filled with wood to be cut to order, different types of and sizes of metal, and of course my favorite.....the TOOOLS!! ooh la la...






I think these Thais must think I'm crazy since I don't want to just go shop and buy jewelry, but I just loved this district. Another street I sought that ended up being quite sketcky and I'm glad we were there during the day is the Soi Ban Baat alleyway. A baat is one of the few possessions that a Thai buddist monk can own. It is a bowl in monks are allowed to beg for food with. Early in the morning it is common to see the monks walking around and showing the bowls, which are quickly filled with food. The bowl is constructed of 8 bands of metal, which represent the 8 fold path of Buddhism.





The craziest part is that these bowl are steel, not copper! So they are somehow raising steel. I think it might be stainless, which is even crazier. Per his images the only time they put into the fire is when they oxidize the outside and cover with laquer, so I guess its just a lot of strong arm work...This guy was a hoot. He pulled out a photo album of him with what he said were current Thai movie stars, calls himself a bit of a celebrity. He was so nice. I tried to show him my tattoo so he would know I was a maker too, it took a few tries but once he saw it, he flipped. He grabbed my by the wrist and dragged me around and showed me off to the other makers..it was pretty cool to catch up with Bangkok metalsmiths...and just in case you are wondering...they are doing well. :)

So later today Dave and I are latching onto a 2 week group tour, and I'm actually kind of excited about it. Its been kinda tough on our own in Bangkok, figuring out the scams and wondering around the (rather gross) under belly of Bangkok. We have one more night in Bangkok, then catching a night train to Laos, over to Vietnam and then up to China....I'm not sure when I'll have internet access next, so we will see...